Update 09/06/2022: You can read my latest review of the Allie Chrono Beauty Tone Up UV SPF 50+ Rose Chaire here.
Update 27/04/2022: You can read my latest review of the Allie Gel UV EX SPF 50+ (2022) here.
Update 31/03/2022: This product has been discontinued.
I would’ve reviewed this sunscreen sooner, but I missed this release last year, for some reason, I feel like it was launched in 2021. Kanebo’s sunscreens are one of my favourites, so this review had to happen.
The product features a commonly found in Japanese suncare mix of zinc oxide and chemical filters, offering us super-high protection of SPF 50+ and PA ++++. The vehicle includes good old glycerine, dimethicone, hydrolysed collagen, and hyaluronic acid for moisture. The formula is free of fragrance, but it contains denatured alcohol; the product isn’t drying or irritating, though. It is suitable for all skin types, resistant to water, sweat, and sebum.
The principal novelty in this product is the inclusion of Kanebo’s 3rd generation film-making technology. The even more resistant and powerful Anti-Friction Technology is present in all sunscreens from the Allie range released in 2020. The improved Anti-Friction Technology may be more lasting; I can’t test that, but what I can say for sure is that it feels better on the skin than its predecessor.
There’s something about Kanebo’s sunscreens that they always work well with my skin. They are simply brilliant, and this product is no exception. The new Allie UV Face Gel feels different from its predecessors; it doesn’t feel like a watery gel. Instead, it resembles European, creamy sunscreens, however, without the heavy and unctuous layer on the skin. It doesn’t surprise the sunscreen has a buttery texture, as it contains quite a lot of glycerine, despite that the product doesn’t weigh on the skin, and it doesn’t have any waxy feeling as its predecessor did. It just has a creamy and delightful texture. I like using this sunscreen, as it’s lightweight and very hydrating, also it holds well against sweat. Even if I sweat, it doesn’t create odd droplets of white paint on my face like the Anessa sunscreen. It gives my skin a polished, satin-smooth look, and it only becomes shiny in my T-zone after a few hours of wear, but it’s nothing that some mattifying powder can’t fix. Unfortunately, this sunscreen will not work for everyone.
The synonymous with Japanese products tone-up effect can be pretty strong here. I don’t want to call it a white cast because it’s an ancient custom in Japan to use products that lighten up the complexion, but the zinc particles in this sunscreen are pretty big. Depending on the amount used, you made end up with a sunscreeny face. With this one, I don’t apply my usual 2.5g of product. I follow the brand’s recommendation and use about 1-1.5g (a 1.2cm diameter circle) for the face. I don’t go for a larger amount for two reasons. The first one is the tone-up effect, it isn’t too prominent with a quarter of a teaspoon, but if I apply 2.5g at once, it drifts into the white cast territory. The second reason is that it takes a while for the sunscreen to settle, so the only way to apply 2.5g of the product is in two separate applications, and I don’t want to spend 15 minutes rubbing sunscreen on my face in the morning. Going back to the tone-up effect, I have a fair complexion, and with one application, it compliments my skin. However, as I reapply and the sunscreen accumulates, it becomes more prominent on my face. To make myself more presentable, I also have to apply it to my neck to even out the colour differences. I believe that on deeper skin tones, the cast will be even more noticeable. I am OK with the finish, I don’t mind looking paler. I can compromise as it’s one of few sunscreens that work for me in summer. I sweat a lot, and I need sunscreen that feels comfortable to wear in hot weather and holds well against perspiration.
For makeup users, I’d recommend sticking to the lower margin as well. I know the more sunscreen, the better, but don’t apply too much if you want the sunscreen to behave well under makeup. It won’t cause your makeup to slide off your face, it sits beautifully on the skin, but it may alter the colours. Aim to apply two to four thin layers. Last thing, but very important, please make sure you blend in the product well because it tends to leave white streaks and clump up around facial hair. If you think you’re done spreading the product, inspect your face closely in a mirror, and I am sure you will find some portions of your face that require more blending. The Anti-Friction Technology makes the sunscreen apt for heavy-duty activities and fervour, but it also renders the sunscreen application process time-consuming.
Overall, it’s a terrific product. The new version has been significantly improved compared to the previous formula. The ultra-resistant Anti-Friction Technology is even more potent, but at the same time, it feels pleasanter and lighter compared to the old version. Unfortunately, the product gives a noticeable white overlay, and for this reason, it may not be everyone’s cup of tea.
The Allie Extra UV Facial Gel V 3.0 SPF 50+ is available from Yesstyle.com [aff].