Another year, another Anthelios’ reformulation…
This sunscreen’s vehicle is similar to previous formulas – only chemical filters, alcohol, glycerine, silica, etc. There are also the same L’Oréal’s film-binding techs. The only difference is a new, proprietary UV filter, the Mexoryl 400. The patent for the old Mexoryl XL has expired, so L’Oréal have decided to create a fresh marketing bait. The problem with their suncare products isn’t the filters but their greasy bases. But, what do I know about sunscreens? Anyway, the revelation with this novelty is that it protects skin from UV rays in the 380-400nm range, similarly to stalwart zinc oxide nanoparticles whose UV absorption region is between 200 and 400nm. Also, I am not sure about the UVA protection level of this new formulation, the previous one had a PPD rating of 46, but there is no information about it this year. I’d say it’s either the same or lower because if the PPD rating were higher than last year’s, then L’Oréal would’ve used it in their marketing campaign.
The product exists in two versions, with and without fragrance. It’s suitable for all skin types.
The sunscreen is not much different from its predecessors regarding its texture or application. It’s a watery fluid with a yellow tint. When it comes to the finish, I’ll describe it with quantities that I’ve tested the product. If applied without measuring, underapplied technically, it leaves no cast, a slight shine, but looks cosmetically elegant and presentable – this is what most people do, hence they like L’Oréal’s sunscreens. With a quarter of a teaspoon (1.25g), my skin glistens, you can easily tell that there’s something on my face. Perhaps not a sun cream, but a rich cream or a facial oil. Also, there’s a bit of a silverish hue. Half a teaspoon (2.5g) results in an attention-attracting face with odd-looking, greasy, silvery skin. It’s strange because the sunscreen has a yellow colour. Honestly, I am not sure if it’s the cast or simply the light hitting my face and this sunscreen that give an optical illusion of a silvery overlay.
The sunscreen rubs off with any friction; its holding capability is non-existent. My face masks end up being yellow inside; a setting powder doesn’t help a lot. The product greases my sunglasses and collars. It also lifts with sweat turning into a milky fluid. If I remember correctly, the previous formulations didn’t turn white when mixed with sweat. I can’t imagine wearing this one in summer. The sunscreen has no tenacity, which is not surprising as it’s very runny, it literally runs through fingers, and I don’t think they can make paint-like film binders for sunscreens yet. The positive thing is that, at least, the product doesn’t seep into my eyes or mouth.
Would I recommend this product? Not really. The main selling point of this sunscreen is the Mexoryl 400, which isn’t something out of the ordinary. Zinc oxide can protect against the same UV wavelengths, and there are many excellent suncare products with the component. Also, the tests provided by L’Oréal seem hazy; they aren’t that convincing. Of course, if you want to try this sunscreen, go ahead, but you could also explore alternatives with zinc oxide.
The Anthelios UVMUNE 400 Invisible Fluid SPF 50+ is available from many stockists in Europe. I think it will come to other markets soon, as the new filter has already been approved in many parts of the world.